Electronics Basics - Revision history

Rangioletti3: /* Brushed vs Brushless */

2023-12-20T22:58:41Z

‎Brushed vs Brushless

Mbayyari3 at 05:18, 30 May 2020

2020-05-30T05:18:33Z

Rmesa3 at 01:49, 26 January 2019

2019-01-26T01:49:28Z

Jreed48: /* ESCs */

2019-01-26T01:33:17Z

‎ESCs

Rmesa3 at 16:15, 29 December 2018

2018-12-29T16:15:12Z

Rmesa3 at 15:59, 29 December 2018

2018-12-29T15:59:21Z

Rmesa3 at 13:48, 29 December 2018

2018-12-29T13:48:42Z

Rmesa3 at 18:48, 13 December 2018

2018-12-13T18:48:23Z

Rmesa3 at 04:53, 1 December 2018

2018-12-01T04:53:45Z

Rmesa3 at 04:48, 1 December 2018

2018-12-01T04:48:08Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:58, 20 December 2023
Line 45:		Line 45:


−	Brushless motors operate using three phase AC current generated by a switching power source or an ESC. The 3 phases of the current are 120 ~~defrees~~ out of phase, meaning that when one line has no current, the other lines have a current at plus and minus cos(120°). These wires are connected in loops around the motor in alternating phases so that at any moment, one wire is pushing the motor forward, one is pulling the motor forward, and the last has no current.	+	Brushless motors operate using three phase AC current generated by a switching power source or an ESC. The 3 phases of the current are 120 degrees out of phase, meaning that when one line has no current, the other lines have a current at plus and minus cos(120°). These wires are connected in loops around the motor in alternating phases so that at any moment, one wire is pushing the motor forward, one is pulling the motor forward, and the last has no current.
	Brushless motor’s have a higher power to weight ratio and higher speed than brushed motors. Battlebots uses brushless motors for its robots due to the control and speeds that they posses. Note that the direction of the motor can be reversed by switching any 2 of the wires.		Brushless motor’s have a higher power to weight ratio and higher speed than brushed motors. Battlebots uses brushless motors for its robots due to the control and speeds that they posses. Note that the direction of the motor can be reversed by switching any 2 of the wires.

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:18, 30 May 2020
Line 1:		Line 1:
		+	[[Category: Electrical]]
	== Overview ==		== Overview ==
	Electronics are an important consideration of all Combat bots. Robots without strong electronics can suffer from shorts and over-voltage, which can ruin components and disable the robot. Creating a strong electrical system is crucial to increasing the durability and maximizing the damage output of the robot. Additionally, compact electronics allow the designer to decrease the size and footprint of the robot, making it a harder target and allowing more weight to be distributed to the armor and weapons.This guide will offer a detailed explanation of the components used in a combat robot's electronics and describe how to assemble the components into a strong and small circuit.		Electronics are an important consideration of all Combat bots. Robots without strong electronics can suffer from shorts and over-voltage, which can ruin components and disable the robot. Creating a strong electrical system is crucial to increasing the durability and maximizing the damage output of the robot. Additionally, compact electronics allow the designer to decrease the size and footprint of the robot, making it a harder target and allowing more weight to be distributed to the armor and weapons.This guide will offer a detailed explanation of the components used in a combat robot's electronics and describe how to assemble the components into a strong and small circuit.

@@ Line 69: / Line 69: @@
 ESCs are chosen based on the max current they will experience. Generally the ESC’s rated current should be higher than the motor’s rated current. For example a 30A motor will generally require a 40 A ESC to prevent overvoltage. The ESCs will also need a Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) to step down the voltage sent to the receiver. The presence of a BEC will be listed in the ESC’s product specifications.
 === Flashing ESC Firmware ===
-Often times ESCs come with firmware that differs from what is needed. The most common way this presents itself is that the motor has no reverse drive. To fix this, you have to flash new firmware onto the ESC. To do this, you'll need an Afro ESC USB Linker and a program called RapidFlash. First plug the white and black cable that typically is attached to the receiver into the Afro ESC USB Linker, being careful to line up the signal pin to the white wire, and the "-" pin to the black wire. Once you have that set up, plus the USB into your computer, power your ESC (either using a DC Power Supply or a battery), and launch RapidFlash. You'll need to set the port (there should only be one option on the drop down), the programmer (Afro ESC USB Linker), the release (using master is fine), and finally you'll need to select the firmware. To determine what firmware to use, consult [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/13tMlu5ldLNpZXwbe6UhDHJhcgTVuljm8HDiDp9WO9Pk/edit#gid=0 this sheet] to see what firmware is recommended for your ESC. Next you'll need to select which features you'll want to flash. "RC_PULS_REVERSE" and "BEACON" are recommend. Finally, press "Flash Firmware" and wait until the terminal says that the serial terminal connection has been terminated.
+Often times ESCs come with firmware that differs from what is needed. The most common way this presents itself is that the motor has no reverse drive. To fix this, you have to flash new firmware onto the ESC. To do this, you'll need an Afro ESC USB Linker and a program called RapidFlash. First plug the white and black cable that typically is attached to the receiver into the Afro ESC USB Linker, being careful to line up the signal pin to the white wire, and the "-" pin to the black wire. Once you have that set up, plus the USB into your computer, power your ESC (either using a DC Power Supply or a battery), and launch RapidFlash. You'll need to set the port (there should only be one option on the drop down), the programmer (Afro ESC USB Linker), the release (using master is fine), and finally you'll need to select the firmware. To determine what firmware to use, consult [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/13tMlu5ldLNpZXwbe6UhDHJhcgTVuljm8HDiDp9WO9Pk/edit#gid=0 this sheet] to see what firmware is recommended for your ESC. Next you'll need to select which features you'll want to flash under the advanced tab. Uncheck "RC_CALIBRATION" because our motors do not calibrate. "RC_PULS_REVERSE" and "BEACON" are recommend. Finally, press "Flash Firmware" and wait until the terminal says that the serial terminal connection has been terminated.
 == Batteries ==

@@ Line 68: / Line 68: @@
 === Choosing an ESC ===
 ESCs are chosen based on the max current they will experience. Generally the ESC’s rated current should be higher than the motor’s rated current. For example a 30A motor will generally require a 40 A ESC to prevent overvoltage. The ESCs will also need a Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) to step down the voltage sent to the receiver. The presence of a BEC will be listed in the ESC’s product specifications.
 == Batteries ==

@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 ===How to Bind===
-Below is a step by step guide on how to bind your receiver to the transmitter on your controller.
+{| class="wikitable floatright"
+|+ Channel List
 |-
 ! scope="col"| Channel
@@ Line 122: / Line 112: @@
 |-
 |}
 == Manufacturing ==

@@ Line 129: / Line 129: @@
 === Soldering ===
 ==== Setup ====
-When you are ready to begin soldering components together, first plug in the soldering iron's power supply and turn it on with the iron in its housing. Be careful, always treat a soldering iron as hot when it is plugged in and keep the iron in its holder when not in use. Keep the iron away from power wires and flammable materials. Begin by melting some solder onto the tip, which helps the heat transfer from the tip. This is called tinning and it should be done if the iron has not been used in several minutes. Clean the iron occasionally by rolling the tip in a wet sponge.
+[[File:Desolder.jpg|thumb|border|200px|Desolder wick sucking solder from a circuit board.]]
-Try to use lead-free solder, or wash your hands after handling solder. Use a fume extractor if possible or work in a well ventilated area as the fumes can be irritating. It is helpful to use solder that has 2-3% flux, which is an acid that cleans the surface of the wires and forms a stronger bond.
+Try to use lead-free solder, or wash your hands after handling solder. Use a fume extractor if possible or work in a well ventilated area as the fumes can be irritating. It is helpful to use solder that has 2-3% rosin flux, which is an acid that cleans the surface of the wires and forms a stronger bond.
 ==== Wire Splicing ====
-When it is necessary to connect two wires without connectors, it is important to mechanically connect the wires to form a bond that is as strong as possible, rather than just glob solder on them. A short step by step procedure with images can be found [https://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-wires-together/| here]. To summarize, twist each wire in your fingers to braid the filaments and melt some solder onto them. Then, wrap the tip of one wire several times around the base of the other. Wrap the remaining wire's tip around the base of the first, then apply the iron to the splice to form a strong electrical connection.
+When it is necessary to connect two wires without connectors, it is important to mechanically connect the wires to form a bond that is as strong as possible, rather than just globing solder on them. A short step by step procedure with images can be found [https://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-wires-together/| here]. To summarize, twist each wire in your fingers to braid the filaments and melt some solder onto them. Then, wrap the tip of one wire several times around the base of the other. Wrap the remaining wire's tip around the base of the first, then apply the iron to the splice to form a strong electrical connection.
 ==== Bullet Connectors ====
 ==== Crimps ====
 === Insulation ===
 Once you've soldered your components to their respective wires, you will need to insulate them to prevent the exposed connections from grounding to your robot's chassis. Generally this is done by wrapping the component in heat shrink. Heat shrink is a material that, as the name suggests, shrinks as heat is applied to it. Simply thread a pre-cut piece around the component, then use a heat gun to shrink it until it is wrapped firmly around the part. Additionally, if heat shrink is unavailable or time is of the essence, you may simply wrap electrical tape around the joint to protect it. For extra insulation, it is recommended that you coat your metal plates in an an insulating substance, like spray paint, to further prevent your electronics from grounding to the chassis.
-[[File:Connector.jpg||frameless|border|200px]][[File:SolderingIron.jpg|frameless|200px]][[File:Bullet.jpg|frameless|border|200px]][[File:HeatShrink.jpg|frameless|border|200px]][[File:Desolder.jpg|frameless|border|200px]]
+[[File:Bullet.jpg|frameless|right|200px]][[File:Connector.jpg||frameless|left|200px]][[File:SolderingIron.jpg|frameless|center|200px]]

@@ Line 93: / Line 93: @@
 The controllers that you will use contain a transmitter which broadcasts a control signal to the receiver on the robot. The receiver decodes the signal and transmits instructions through different channels that connect to each component in the circuit. These signals tell the ESCs how much power to route to each motor which allows the user to control the robot from a distance.
-The receivers that Battlebots uses have six channels, but we only use three of them to control the robot. The first channel is connected to the weapon ESC which controls how fast the weapon spins. The control stick connected to this channel has a fixed position, which is useful for keeping a constant power to the motor. The next two channels connect to each drive ESC and are used to maneuver the robot. The drive stick uses the vertical position of the stick to control the power sent to both motors and the horizontal position to send more power to one motor when executing a turn. The final channel that is present in all newer receivers is the binding channel. This channel is used to bind the transmitter in the controller directly to the receiver int the robot. This step only needs to be completed once and lasts until the receiver is re-bound to a different transmitter. Note that when binding the receiver, the trim of the controller might need to be adjusted for the receiver to detect all channels. Trim are knobs that finely tune how much power is transmitted when the stick is pushed a specific amount. These will need to be adjusted if the robot lists to one side when driven forward.
+The receivers that Battlebots uses have six channels, but we only use three of them to control the robot. The first channel is connected to the weapon ESC which controls how fast the weapon spins. The control stick connected to this channel has a fixed position, which is useful for keeping a constant power to the motor. The next two channels connect to each drive ESC and are used to maneuver the robot. The drive stick uses the vertical position of the stick to control the power sent to both motors and the horizontal position to send more power to one motor when executing a turn. The final channel that is present in all newer receivers is the binding channel. This channel is used to bind the transmitter in the controller directly to the receiver int the robot. This step only needs to be completed once and lasts until the receiver is re-bound to a different transmitter. Note that when binding the receiver, the trim of the controller might need to be adjusted for the receiver to detect all channels. Trim are sliders that finely tune how much power is transmitted when the stick is pushed a specific amount. These will need to be adjusted if the robot lists to one side when driven forward.
 ===How to Bind===
 Below is a step by step guide on how to bind your receiver to the transmitter on your controller.
-. I don't know how to do this yet.
+. Plug the binding clip into the BAT slot on the receiver.
-.
+. Connect the receiver to a powered ESC in any slot. Make sure the metal prongs are facing the top of the receiver when you plug it in.
-.
+. While holding the pair button on the controller, switch it on. You should see a solid light on the receiver.
 == Manufacturing ==
@@ Line 117: / Line 136: @@
-[[File:Connector.jpg||frameless|border|230px]][[File:SolderingIron.jpg|frameless|230px]][[File:Bullet.jpg|frameless|border|230px]][[File:HeatShrink.jpg|frameless|border|230px]][[File:Desolder.jpg|frameless|border|230px]]
+[[File:Connector.jpg||frameless|border|200px]][[File:SolderingIron.jpg|frameless|200px]][[File:Bullet.jpg|frameless|border|200px]][[File:HeatShrink.jpg|frameless|border|200px]][[File:Desolder.jpg|frameless|border|200px]]

@@ Line 112: / Line 112: @@
 When you are ready to begin soldering components together, first plug in the soldering iron's power supply and turn it on. Be careful, always treat a soldering iron as hot when it is plugged in and keep the iron in its holder when not in use.
-[[File:BulletSolder.jpg|right|frameless|300px]]
+[[File:BulletSolder.jpg|right|thumb|300px|A step by step guide on how to solder on bullet connectors]]
 === Insulation ===
 Once you've soldered your components to their respective wires, you will need to insulate them to prevent the exposed connections from grounding to your robot's chassis. Generally this is done by wrapping the component in heat shrink. Heat shrink is a material that, as the name suggests, shrinks as heat is applied to it. Simply thread a pre-cut piece around the component, then use a heat gun to shrink it until it is wrapped firmly around the part. Additionally, if heat shrink is unavailable or time is of the essence, you may simply wrap electrical tape around the joint to protect it. For extra insulation, it is recommended that you coat your metal plates in an an insulating substance, like spray paint, to further prevent your electronics from grounding to the chassis.

@@ Line 108: / Line 108: @@
 [[File:AmpacityChart.png|right|frameless|300px]]
 When wiring your circuit together, you need to choose wires with a large enough diameter that they can conduct the current flowing through them without melting. However you also want wires that are thin enough to fit into the empty space inside your robot. Wires are graded by their gauge or thickness, with larger diameter correlating with a smaller gauge. To find the minimum gauge wires needed to effectively power the components, you can consult an ampacity chart. The ampacity of the wires should exceed the maximum rating of your ESCs.
 === Soldering ===
-=== Connectors ===
+When you are ready to begin soldering components together, first plug in the soldering iron's power supply and turn it on. Be careful, always treat a soldering iron as hot when it is plugged in and keep the iron in its holder when not in use.
 [[File:BulletSolder.jpg|right|frameless|300px]]