RoboJackets Wiki - User contributions [en]

Competition Tool Packing List

2017-04-20T04:01:19Z

Carrieweh:

== Consumables ==
* Velcro
* Glue (superglue, hot glue)
* Lock Tight (red, blue, retaining compound)

* Tape (kapton, gaffers, electrical ,duct)
* Grease and Chain Oil
* Boe Lube
* Plastic Bags
* Retaining Rings
* Sandpaper
* Zip Ties
* Foam for Battery
* Solder
* Flux
* AA Batteries
* Programming Cable
* Heat Shrink
* Wire (multiple sizes and gauges)
* Connectors (XT90, bullet)
* 9V Battery

== Tools ==
* Hex Sets
* Tap Wrench
* Taps (1/4-20 5/16-18 3/8-16 1/2-13)
* Drill
* Drill Charger
* Drill Bit Kits (letter and numbered index)
* Drill Bit Phillips Head (more than 1)
* Angle Grinder (grinding wheel and cutoff wheel)
* Dremel and Bits
* Vice Grips
* Pliers (more than 1)
* Scissors
* Channel Locks
* Wrenches (5/16 - 7/16 - 9/16 - adjustable)
* Retaining Ring Pliers
* Files
* Clamps
* Glue Gun
* Chain Breaker
* Large Wire Cutters
* Hacksaw
* Center Punch
* Hammer
* Mallet
* Screw Drivers (assorted sizes)
* Soldering Iron
* Diagonal Cutters
* Wire Strippers
* Exacto Blade
* Henping Hands/ mini vice
* Chargers (BB and RC)
* Power Supplies
* Calipers
* Sharpie
* Multimeter
* Heat Gun

Competition Tool Packing List

2017-04-20T03:54:28Z

Carrieweh:

Competition Tool Packing List

2017-04-20T03:39:33Z

Carrieweh: Created page with " == Consumables == == Tools =="

== Consumables ==

== Tools ==

BattleBots

2017-04-20T03:37:54Z

Carrieweh:

Welcome to the '''[http://www.robojackets.org/ RoboJackets]''' BattleBots wiki! [[File:Motorama 2015.jpeg|thumb|right|400px|BattleBots team at Motorama 2015]]

== Overview ==

Everyone has seen BattleBots on T.V., fighting to the death in a gladiatorial-style arena in a shower of steel, sparks, and glory, and yet many people haven't the first clue about what it takes to build one!

RoboJackets' BattleBots team tries to solve this, by teaching members to design and build a robot 1) robust enough to take multiple beatings, but 2) strong enough to deliver its own beatings in return. A good technical challenge that takes hundreds of man-hours and buckets of love. We have built battle-ready robots in the 120 lb, 60 lb, 30 lb, 12 lb, and 3 lb weight classes, including (based on their active weapon) drum spinners, ring spinners, shell spinners, veritical and horizontal bar spinners, sumo bots, walkers, and even the occassional wedge.

We use mostly mechanical skills with some degree of electrical experience to implement our carefully CAD'ed designs, to personally manufacture the majority of our robots. Ultimately our goal is to build an awesome machine to fight one-on-one with another robot in the same weight class, all the while learning practical applications of tooling and machining, and gaining invaluable experience in the design and manufacturing process.

== The Competition ==

The competition consists of fights between robots in the same weight class. Competition rules place certain limits on weapon design and robot weight, for a fair contest and for the safety of the observers. For instance, entanglement weapons such as ropes or nets are prohibited along with invisible weapons such as electrical interference. This focuses the robot design on aggressive weapons designed to break apart or incapacitate the other robot, and the only limit on this type of weapon is that it is well engineered so as to not harm the people around it. The presence of these aggressive weapons forces the robots to be designed to withstand large shock loads, both mechanically and electrically. The challenge of the BattleBots team is unique in that a balance needs to be reached between defensive and offensive abilities, all while ensuring that the robot is very robust in all aspects. Even a single wire or bolt coming loose will cause defeat in an intense fight!  This year we plan on attending two competitions, Motorama in Harrisburg, PA and Robogames in San Manteo, CA.

== Meeting Times ==

We meet in the Student Competition Center (Building on 14th Street). Wear closed-toe shoes and a tshirt (no long sleeves) since we will be using the shop. Bring a hair tie if needed. [[BattleBots_Carpool_Info|Carpool]]

*'''BattleBots Meeting''' - Thursday 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm
*'''BattleBots Meeting''' - Friday 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm

== Documentation ==

===== 2017 Competition =====
* [[Motorama 2017]]
* RoboGames 2017

===== 2016 Competition =====

*[[Motorama_2016|Motorama 2016]]
*[[RoboGames_2016|RoboGames 2016]]

===== 2015 Competition =====

*[[Motorama_2015|Motorama 2015]]
*[[RoboGames_2015|RoboGames 2015]]

===== 2014 Competition =====

*[[BattleBots_2014_Tasks|Tasks]]
*[[BattleBots_2014_Meeting_Notes|Meeting Notes]]

===== 2013 Competition =====

*[[BattleBots_2013_Tasks|Tasks]]
*[[BattleBots_2013_Meeting_Notes|Meeting Notes]]

===== [[BattleBots_Overview_2012|2012 Competition]] =====

*[[BattleBotsPhotos2012|Photos]]
*[[BattleBots_2012_Tasks|Tasks]]
*[[BattleBots_2012_Meeting_Notes|Meeting Notes]]

===== [[BattleBots_Overview_2011|2011 Competition]] =====

*[http://www.robojackets.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7317 2011 Competition Pictures]

== Links ==

*[http://www.robojackets.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=50 RJ BattleBots Gallery]
*[http://www.robojackets.org/teams/battlebots/ RJ BattleBots Overview Page]
*[https://lists.gatech.edu/sympa/info/robojackets-battlebots RJ BattleBots Mailing List]
*[http://robogames.net/ RoboGames]
*[http://www.riobotz.com.br/tutorial.html Riobotz Tutorial] (400 page book on how to build a BattleBot. Great resource.)
*[http://www.battlebots.com/ Battlebots.com]
*[http://www.buildersdb.com/ Buidersdb.com]
*[http://www.robotmarketplace.com Robot Marketplace] (good source for motors, drivers, etc.)
*[[BattleBots BeetleWeight Wiki Template]]
*[[3lbers]]
*[[Competition Tool Packing List]]
[[Category:Pages with broken file links]] [[Category:BattleBots]]

3lbers

2017-04-08T01:57:27Z

Carrieweh:

== Drum Spinner ==

[[Radii]], [[Misti]]

A robot whose weapon is a spinning drum with teeth at the front of the robot. The two general ways of making it are with the motor inside the drum, and with the motor outside the drum. If the motor is outside the drum, a pulley will spin the drum.

== Ring Spinner ==

[[Qti]], [[Smitti Werbenjagermanjensen]]

A robot whose weapon is a friction-driven spinning ring with teeth. Generally has flywheels which support the ring as it spins.

Pros
* Easily invertible
Cons
* Hard to make well

== Shell Spinner ==

A robot that does damage by spinning a "shell" that encompasses the robot.
== Vertical Spinner ==

[[Dat Boi]]

A robot with a vertically spinning weapon at the front of the robot.
== Horizontal Spinner ==
[[Schwifti]], [[Ki]]

A robot armed with a spinning bar at the front which is driven with a pulley.

[http://www.riobotz.com.br/riobotz_combot_tutorial.pdf]

3lbers

2017-04-08T01:44:30Z

Carrieweh: /* Drum Spinner */

== Drum Spinner ==

[[Radii]], [[Misti]]
== Ring Spinner ==

[[Qti]], [[Smitti Werbenjagermanjensen]]
== Shell Spinner ==

== Vertical Spinner ==

[[Dat Boi]]
== Horizontal Spinner ==
[[Schwifti]], [[Ki]]

3lbers

2017-04-08T01:38:30Z

Carrieweh: Created page with " == Drum Spinner == == Ring Spinner == == Shell Spinner == == Vertical Spinner == == Horizontal Spinner =="

== Drum Spinner ==

== Ring Spinner ==

== Shell Spinner ==

== Vertical Spinner ==

== Horizontal Spinner ==

BattleBots

2017-04-08T01:37:00Z

Carrieweh:

Welcome to the '''[http://www.robojackets.org/ RoboJackets]''' BattleBots wiki! [[File:Motorama 2015.jpeg|thumb|right|400px|BattleBots team at Motorama 2015]]

== Overview ==

Everyone has seen BattleBots on T.V., fighting to the death in a gladiatorial-style arena in a shower of steel, sparks, and glory, and yet many people haven't the first clue about what it takes to build one!

RoboJackets' BattleBots team tries to solve this, by teaching members to design and build a robot 1) robust enough to take multiple beatings, but 2) strong enough to deliver its own beatings in return. A good technical challenge that takes hundreds of man-hours and buckets of love. We have built battle-ready robots in the 120 lb, 60 lb, 30 lb, 12 lb, and 3 lb weight classes, including (based on their active weapon) drum spinners, ring spinners, shell spinners, veritical and horizontal bar spinners, sumo bots, walkers, and even the occassional wedge.

We use mostly mechanical skills with some degree of electrical experience to implement our carefully CAD'ed designs, to personally manufacture the majority of our robots. Ultimately our goal is to build an awesome machine to fight one-on-one with another robot in the same weight class, all the while learning practical applications of tooling and machining, and gaining invaluable experience in the design and manufacturing process.

== The Competition ==

The competition consists of fights between robots in the same weight class. Competition rules place certain limits on weapon design and robot weight, for a fair contest and for the safety of the observers. For instance, entanglement weapons such as ropes or nets are prohibited along with invisible weapons such as electrical interference. This focuses the robot design on aggressive weapons designed to break apart or incapacitate the other robot, and the only limit on this type of weapon is that it is well engineered so as to not harm the people around it. The presence of these aggressive weapons forces the robots to be designed to withstand large shock loads, both mechanically and electrically. The challenge of the BattleBots team is unique in that a balance needs to be reached between defensive and offensive abilities, all while ensuring that the robot is very robust in all aspects. Even a single wire or bolt coming loose will cause defeat in an intense fight!  This year we plan on attending two competitions, Motorama in Harrisburg, PA and Robogames in San Manteo, CA.

== Meeting Times ==

We meet in the Student Competition Center (Building on 14th Street). Wear closed-toe shoes and a tshirt (no long sleeves) since we will be using the shop. Bring a hair tie if needed. [[BattleBots_Carpool_Info|Carpool]]

*'''BattleBots Meeting''' - Thursday 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm
*'''BattleBots Meeting''' - Friday 6:30 pm to 9:30 pm

== Documentation ==

===== 2017 Competition =====
* [[Motorama 2017]]
* RoboGames 2017

===== 2016 Competition =====

*[[Motorama_2016|Motorama 2016]]
*[[RoboGames_2016|RoboGames 2016]]

===== 2015 Competition =====

*[[Motorama_2015|Motorama 2015]]
*[[RoboGames_2015|RoboGames 2015]]

===== 2014 Competition =====

*[[BattleBots_2014_Tasks|Tasks]]
*[[BattleBots_2014_Meeting_Notes|Meeting Notes]]

===== 2013 Competition =====

*[[BattleBots_2013_Tasks|Tasks]]
*[[BattleBots_2013_Meeting_Notes|Meeting Notes]]

===== [[BattleBots_Overview_2012|2012 Competition]] =====

*[[BattleBotsPhotos2012|Photos]]
*[[BattleBots_2012_Tasks|Tasks]]
*[[BattleBots_2012_Meeting_Notes|Meeting Notes]]

===== [[BattleBots_Overview_2011|2011 Competition]] =====

*[http://www.robojackets.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=7317 2011 Competition Pictures]

== Links ==

*[http://www.robojackets.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=50 RJ BattleBots Gallery]
*[http://www.robojackets.org/teams/battlebots/ RJ BattleBots Overview Page]
*[https://lists.gatech.edu/sympa/info/robojackets-battlebots RJ BattleBots Mailing List]
*[http://robogames.net/ RoboGames]
*[http://www.riobotz.com.br/tutorial.html Riobotz Tutorial] (400 page book on how to build a BattleBot. Great resource.)
*[http://www.battlebots.com/ Battlebots.com]
*[http://www.buildersdb.com/ Buidersdb.com]
*[http://www.robotmarketplace.com Robot Marketplace] (good source for motors, drivers, etc.)
*[[BattleBots BeetleWeight Wiki Template]]
*[[3lbers]]
[[Category:Pages with broken file links]] [[Category:BattleBots]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-04-08T01:18:59Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[File:IMG_4316.jpg|200px|Injection Molder]]
|-
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold... it's blue
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until the mold side is warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This just prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Place optional supporting material, the mold, and the adapter on the table to test table height and how the adapter is aligned with the nozzle. There is a divot in the top of the adapter that interfaces with the nozzle. When you place the adapter on the mold, it should look like a T.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting. Proper height is the height where when raised, the arm will click and the adaptor connects well with the nozzle.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. Supporting material can be added or removed under the mold to adjust the height.
## On the bottom left, move the black latch behind the red button and push to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should have a tight fit with the nozzle.
## To lower the table after the button has been pressed, pull the button back out.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
## Pull the red button back out to lower the table.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts(drill out plastic), reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

How to Guide Battlebots

2017-04-08T00:50:24Z

Carrieweh: /* Basic Guide to 3lbers */

== Basic Guide to 3lbers ==

== Ring Spinners ==

Examples: [[Qti]],[[Smitti Werbenjagermanjensen]]

== Drum Spinners ==

Examples: [[Radii]] [[Misti]]

A robot that does damage with a cylinder attached to the front that has teeth on it. Two

== Shell Spinner ==

Examples: [[Shelli]]

== Vertical Spinner ==

Examples: [[Dat Boi]]

== Horizontal Spinner ==
Examples: [[Ki]] [[Schwifti]]

How to Guide Battlebots

2017-04-08T00:19:52Z

Carrieweh: /* Drum Spinners */

== Basic Guide to 3lbers ==

== Ring Spinners ==

Examples: [[Qti]],[[Smitti Werbenjagermanjensen]]

== Drum Spinners ==

Examples: [[Radii]] [[Misti]]

== Shell Spinner ==

Examples: [[Shelli]]

== Vertical Spinner ==

Examples: [[Dat Boi]]

== Horizontal Spinner ==
Examples: [[Ki]] [[Schwifti]]

How to Guide Battlebots

2017-04-07T23:56:01Z

Carrieweh: /* Basic Guide to 3lbers */

== Basic Guide to 3lbers ==

== Ring Spinners ==

== Drum Spinners ==

== Shell Spinner ==

== Vertical Spinner ==

== Horizontal Spinner ==

How to Guide Battlebots

2017-04-07T23:50:47Z

Carrieweh: Created page with " == Basic Guide to 3lbers =="

== Basic Guide to 3lbers ==

File:Molder thing.jpeg

2017-04-07T23:28:43Z

Carrieweh:

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-04-07T23:09:26Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[File:IMG_4316.jpg|200px|Injection Molder]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Notehttps://wiki.robojackets.org/index.php?title=How_to_Guide_Injection_Molder&action=edit
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold... it's blue
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until the mold side is warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This just prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Place optional supporting material, the mold, and the adapter on the table to test table height and how the adapter is aligned with the nozzle. There is a divot in the top of the adapter that interfaces with the nozzle. When you place the adapter on the mold, it should look like a T.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting. Proper height is the height where when raised, the arm will click and the adaptor connects well with the nozzle.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. Supporting material can be added or removed under the mold to adjust the height.
## On the bottom left, move the black latch behind the red button and push to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should have a tight fit with the nozzle.
## To lower the table after the button has been pressed, pull the button back out.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
## Pull the red button back out to lower the table.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts(drill out plastic), reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-04-07T23:08:32Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[File:IMG_4316.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold... it's blue
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until the mold side is warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This just prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Place optional supporting material, the mold, and the adapter on the table to test table height and how the adapter is aligned with the nozzle. There is a divot in the top of the adapter that interfaces with the nozzle. When you place the adapter on the mold, it should look like a T.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting. Proper height is the height where when raised, the arm will click and the adaptor connects well with the nozzle.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. Supporting material can be added or removed under the mold to adjust the height.
## On the bottom left, move the black latch behind the red button and push to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should have a tight fit with the nozzle.
## To lower the table after the button has been pressed, pull the button back out.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
## Pull the red button back out to lower the table.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts(drill out plastic), reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-04-07T23:07:48Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[Image:IMG_4316.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold... it's blue
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until the mold side is warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This just prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Place optional supporting material, the mold, and the adapter on the table to test table height and how the adapter is aligned with the nozzle. There is a divot in the top of the adapter that interfaces with the nozzle. When you place the adapter on the mold, it should look like a T.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting. Proper height is the height where when raised, the arm will click and the adaptor connects well with the nozzle.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. Supporting material can be added or removed under the mold to adjust the height.
## On the bottom left, move the black latch behind the red button and push to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should have a tight fit with the nozzle.
## To lower the table after the button has been pressed, pull the button back out.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
## Pull the red button back out to lower the table.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts(drill out plastic), reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Qti

2017-04-07T23:05:01Z

Carrieweh:

{| class="wikitable" align="right"
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | QTI
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" |[[File:QTI AutoCAD Assembly.jpeg|right|frameless|480x480px|[[File:QTI AutoCAD Assembly.jpeg|thumb]]]]
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Year Of Creation
|2016-2017
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | Versions
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Current Version
|V1.0
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Update Year
|2017
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Wins/Losses
|0/2
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | Information and Statistics
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weight Class
| {{{wc|BeetleWeight}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weapon Class
|Ring Spinner
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Combined Wins/Losses
|0/2
|}

A ring spinner with 3 flywheels, a direct drive motor with rubber, with an aluminum milled wheel and steel teeth.

== Competitions ==

=== [[Motorama_20XX|Motorama 2017]] ===

*Results:
**Bracket Style:
***[(Video Link) (result) vs (opponent)]
****(notes)
****(observations))

== Version ==

=== (QTI) V1.0 ===

{| border="1" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" style="width: 500px;"
|-
| Drive Motors
| 25d-gearmotor-4.4-9.7 
|-
| Drive Motor Controllers
| None Required
|-
| Weapon Motor
| Turnigy 2836 Brushless 450-Size Heli Motor 3700kv
|-
| Weapon Motor Controllers
|Turnigy MultiStar 40A V2 Slim BLHeli Multi-Rotor Brushless OPTO ESC 2-6S
|-
| Receiver
| Hobby King 2.4Ghz Receiver 6Ch V2 
|-
| Remote Control
| Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx and Rx V2 
|-
| Battery Name
| Steve (Standard Lipo Battery)
|-
|Wheels
|BaneBots Wheel, 2-7/8" x 0.4", 1/2" Hex Mount, 40A, Black/Orange
|-
|Wheel Hubs
|Hub, Hex, Series 40, Set Screw, 4mm shaft, 1 Wide
|-
| (OTHER:)
| 
|}

==== Problems ====

*Not enough grip on weapon motor
*Fly wheel shafts bent, should have used something stronger than 1/4 in aluminum
*Too tall - shafts too long
*Tolerances weren't great
*Controls and driving were bad

==== Good aspects ====

*It spun whoop whoop

==== Changes/Improvements ====

*Use stiffer rubber on weapon motor
*Decrease clearance from ground

== See also ==
<ul style="line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">
<li>[(link to other bot made this year) (Name of other bot made this year)]</li>
</ul>

== Notes: ==

Its named QTI because of irony and it's cute am I right?

Built by: Omar Chbaklo, Will Cuthbertson, Beatriz Dias, Wallace Gray, Christina Paris, Anshul Sinha, David Wang, Carrie Wehmeyer
[[Category:BattleBots]] [[Category:BeetleWeights]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-03-31T01:55:41Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[Image:Robojackets.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold... it's blue
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until the mold side is warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This just prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Place optional supporting material, the mold, and the adapter on the table to test table height and how the adapter is aligned with the nozzle. There is a divot in the top of the adapter that interfaces with the nozzle. When you place the adapter on the mold, it should look like a T.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting. Proper height is the height where when raised, the arm will click and the adaptor connects well with the nozzle.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. Supporting material can be added or removed under the mold to adjust the height.
## On the bottom left, move the black latch behind the red button and push to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should have a tight fit with the nozzle.
## To lower the table after the button has been pressed, pull the button back out.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
## Pull the red button back out to lower the table.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts(drill out plastic), reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-03-31T00:47:02Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[Image:Robojackets.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold... it's blue
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until the mold side is warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Pl
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting. Proper height is the height where when raised, the arm will click and the adaptor connects well with the nozzle.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. You can also just support your mold on other pieces of material if the table is too low.
## Push the red button on the bottom left to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should connect with the nozzle.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Put the mold on the table, and align the adaptor how with the mold's hole. The wide part of the adaptor is on top
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts, reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-03-31T00:36:41Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[Image:Robojackets.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. Heat them until warm to the touch, this isn't an exact science. This prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. You can also just support your mold on other pieces of material if the table is too low.
## Push the red button on the bottom left to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should connect with the nozzle.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts, reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-03-31T00:14:57Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
! align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3" |
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[Image:Robojackets.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. This prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. You can also just support your mold on other pieces of material if the table is too low.
## Push the red button on the bottom left to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should connect with the nozzle.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts, reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-03-24T18:20:24Z

Carrieweh:

{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;"
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|The Thing
|-
|align="center" colspan="3"|[[Image:Robojackets.jpg|200px|The Thing]]
|-
!align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|Note
|-
!align="left" valign="top"|Something
|colspan="2" valign="top"|More Something
|-
|}

The machine is pretty simple... just a few buttons.

==Needed Items==
#Adapter that connects the nozzle to your mold
#Plastic beads
#Mold
#Gloves
#Hotplate

==Steps==
# Turn on the machine and make sure there is plastic in it.
## The switch is on the left side.
## The plastic is held on the right. There is a gate, so lift it and fill that area with the beads.
# Set the heating temperatures for the nozzle ad barrel. These are specified on the front of the machine, and they are entered into the little screens on the left.
# Check clamp force..... still figuring out how to choose the right amount
# Heat up your mold's parts and the adapter on the hotplate. This prevents the plastic from cooling to fast or clogging parts of the mold.
# Check to make the table will be at the proper height for injecting.
## Table height can be adjusted on the side with a hex key. You can also just support your mold on other pieces of material if the table is too low.
## Push the red button on the bottom left to raise the table. The arm should make a clicking noise and the adapter should connect with the nozzle.
# Adjust the position of the mold so it is aligned with the nozzle.
# Push the red button to raise the table and when it is raised, push the black button on the right to inject the plastic.
## Release the black button when the hissing subsides, or you see plastic leaking from the sides.
# Take the mold off of the table, and pull the part out of it.
# Clean parts, reheat as needed, and repeat.

==Notes and Troubleshooting==
* If plastic consistently leaks out the sides of the mold, check your clamp force and if the arm locks.
* If it just wont work and you don't know why, check to make sure the ram is raising all the way in the part where you insert the plastic beads.
* It won't work if the gate on the side is open.
* ABS is easier to mold than Delrin.
* There are other buttons on the front we don't know how to use.
[[Category:How to Guides]]

Tool Guide: Injection Molder

2017-03-24T18:00:59Z

Carrieweh: Created page with "{| id="go" style="color: #ffffff; width:20em; margin:0 0 0.5em 1em; float: right;" !align="center" bgcolor="#808080" colspan="3"|The Thing |- |align="center" colspan="3"|Ima..."

Qti

2017-03-03T02:09:42Z

Carrieweh:

{| class="wikitable" align="right"
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | QTI
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" | [[File:(Image filename)|frameless|right|480x360px|(Highlight text)]]
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Year Of Creation
|2016-2017
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | Versions
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Current Version
|V.1
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Update Year
|2017
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Wins/Losses
|0/2
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | Information and Statistics
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weight Class
| {{{wc|BeetleWeight}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weapon Class
|Ring Spinner
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Combined Wins/Losses
|0/2
|}

(basic summary of robot)

== Competitions ==

=== [[Motorama_20XX|Motorama 20XX]] ===

*Results:
**Bracket Style:
***[(Video Link) (result) vs (opponent)]
****(notes)
****(observations))

== Version ==

=== (Bot Name) VX.X ===

Created by: (Names of Builders/Group Members of aforementioned version of bot)

{| border="1" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" style="width: 500px;"
|-
| Drive Motors
| (Drive Motor Name) 
|-
| Drive Motor Controllers
| (Drive Motor Controller Name)
|-
| Weapon Motor
| (Weapon Motor Name)
|-
| Weapon Motor Controllers
| (Weapon Motor Controller Name)
|-
| Receiver
| Hobby King 2.4Ghz Receiver 6Ch V2 
|-
| Remote Control
| Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx and Rx V2 
|-
| Battery
| (Battery Name)
|-
| (OTHER:)
| 
|}

==== Problems ====

*Not enough grip on weapon motor
*Fly wheel shafts bent, should have used something stronger than 1/4 in aluminum
*Too tall - shafts too long
*Tolerances weren't great
*Controls and driving were bad

==== Good aspects ====

*It spun whoop whoop

==== Changes/Improvements ====

*Use stiffer rubber on weapon motor
*Decrease clearance from ground

== See also ==
<ul style="line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">
<li>[(link to other bot made this year) (Name of other bot made this year)]</li>
</ul>

== Notes: ==

Its named QTI because of irony and it's cute am I right?

Built by: Beatriz Dias, Wallace Gray, Carrie Wehmeyer, Omar Chbaklo, Anshul Sinha, David Wang, Christina Paris, Will Cuthbetson
[[Category:BattleBots]] [[Category:BeetleWeights]]

Qti

2017-03-03T01:53:43Z

Carrieweh:

{| class="wikitable" align="right"
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | (Bot Name)
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" | [[File:(Image filename)|frameless|right|480x360px|(Highlight text)]]
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Year Of Creation
| {{{year|20XX-20XX}}}
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | Versions
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Current Version
| {{{currver|X.X}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Update Year
| {{{updyr|20XX-20XX}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Wins/Losses
| {{{winloss|X/X}}}
|-
! scope="row" colspan="2" style="background-color:#FFFF99" | Information and Statistics
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weight Class
| {{{wc|BeetleWeight}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weapon Class
| {{{weapc|(weapon type)}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Combined Wins/Losses
| {{{winloss|X/X}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | Weapon Speed
| {{{TBA|(RPM)}}}
|-
! scope="row" style="text-align:left" | ("Temporary")
| {{{TBA|("Temporary")}}}
|}

(basic summary of robot)

== Competitions ==

=== [[Motorama_20XX|Motorama 20XX]] ===

*Results:
**Bracket Style:
***[(Video Link) (result) vs (opponent)]
****(notes)
****(observations))

== Version ==

=== (Bot Name) VX.X ===

Created by: (Names of Builders/Group Members of aforementioned version of bot)

{| border="1" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="1" style="width: 500px;"
|-
| Drive Motors
| (Drive Motor Name) 
|-
| Drive Motor Controllers
| (Drive Motor Controller Name)
|-
| Weapon Motor
| (Weapon Motor Name)
|-
| Weapon Motor Controllers
| (Weapon Motor Controller Name)
|-
| Receiver
| Hobby King 2.4Ghz Receiver 6Ch V2 
|-
| Remote Control
| Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx and Rx V2 
|-
| Battery
| (Battery Name)
|-
| (OTHER:)
| 
|}

==== Problems ====

*(List of Problems, 1 per bullet point)

==== Good aspects ====

*(List of good aspects, 1 per bullet point)

==== Changes/Improvements ====

*(List of suggested improvements/changes, 1 per bullet point)

== See also ==
<ul style="line-height: 20.7999992370605px;">
<li>[(link to other bot made this year) (Name of other bot made this year)]</li>
</ul>

== Notes: ==

(random joke, optional)

(Naming inspiration, optional)

(Names of original builders)
[[Category:BattleBots]] [[Category:BeetleWeights]]

Qti

2017-03-03T01:50:42Z

Carrieweh:

Qti

2017-03-03T01:50:19Z

Carrieweh:

Qti

2017-03-03T01:49:49Z

Carrieweh: Created page with "{{subst: BattleBots_BeetleWeights}}"